Salam

1 February, 2011
It’s a little after midnight and things are already gearing up for what appears to be a day of chaos.  We were all ready to go to the million person protest tomorrow- on the periphery and possibly part of the foreigners show of solidarity.  However, less than a half an hour ago we got word that cell phones might be turned  off again tomorrow (today) in lieu of the large protest.  Then we heard a possible conspiracy theory that the Muslim Brotherhood was going to descend upon the protest with weapons and create a jihad.  We have no way to substantiate the report but that understandably dampened my fervor.  As of now, we’re undecided if we’re attending or not.

We decided to go.  The situation today was wonderful- we enjoyed being in the midan and seeing the [peaceful] determination of the protesters.  It makes leaving seem silly.  However, continuing pleas from family and friends leave me feeling almost guilty for not leaving.  It seems selfish to continue putting them through the worry.  But being here and talking with many Egyptians and other expats, it seems dramatic and almost cowardly to leave.  Too late to avoid today, at any rate. All we can do is wait.

March of Millions VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

Protests Day 7

31 January, 2011

Today we decided that we had been locked inside long enough and we were going to go to Tahrir in downtown where the major protests were.  It was a very mild day, a protesting day off.  That being so, there was still probably 5,000 people or more in the Midan.  My roommate kept observing the festive air and the sense of hope that was surrounding the people.  There was no raucous behavior, just passionate chanting.  A few people noticed we were American and said, “Welcome.”  Despite two signs, everyone was very appreciative of us being there or at least wasn’t bothered by it.

We also went to the Embassy to get information about the evacuations in person.  Apparently the government is offering to loan people the money to get to Turkey, Greece, or Cyprus and once we’re there, we’re on our own.  We were speculating at the cost of the tickets: on a regular day airfare to these places isn’t over $300.  We finally found out that the US government is offering to assist it’s citizens for the low low price of $3,500.   That’s in US dollars.  On one hand, it was helpful because most of us decided to stay.  With prices like that we can’t afford evacuation. 

We also heard that school is cancelled indefinitely and if we don’t start within the next two weeks then the semester will be moved to the summer.  Not only does this affect everything, but most of us live off of student loans and without them we might have to go back to the states in order to get jobs.  That sounds horrible.  I’d rather stay here. 

We found a place that had internet.  How did they do that?  I decided not to use it yet because Em is doing such a good job at updating people for me.  I don’t want to foster my addiction unless I have to.

Revolution VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

Cacophony of Sounds in the Night

30 January, 2011

Unrestful night.  Just as I was drifting off to sleep we would hear gunfire at the end of the street and possibly tanks driving by.  I can’t substantiate those claims as we still have very little access to reliable information.  Much of what we here is panicked conjecture. 

Went out again to try to buy more food.  Going to the stores seems to make everything more “real.”  There are tons of people, the aisles are full, the shelves are low on supplies, everyone is trying to stock up.  Many of the people are Egyptians.  That leads me to believe that we aren’t being dramatic by stocking up and going home.  Roommate’s sister says we’re still good to stay, despite some women saying they heard on the news that the US Embassy was telling Americans to leave.  I called the Embassy number but no one is picking up- I’m sure they’re getting a lot of calls.

It’s only a little past noon and shots are ringing again.  Yesterday they waited until dusk.  Are things getting better or worse?  It’s so hard being in an information blackout.  I wish our tv worked and we got an actual news channel as opposed to Al Jazeera which consists of various people calling in and demonstrating their support for the Egyptian people.  We’ve only heard one account of people in Tahrir- apparently the actual protesters are keeping things calm: praying, holding hands, quelling any raucous  behavior.  There’s also talk that the looters are actually plain clothes police.  Again, can’t substantiate.  Still fine with staying…

 

Voluntary evacuations taking place tomorrow morning.  I’m tired.

I made tuna noodle casserole and was instantly transported to home.  Some of the simplest and most delicious comfort food.

 

Took a walk around the neighborhood.  Gunshots are quite subdued compared to last night.  It was really nice to be able to tell the men “shukran” and get to see the extent of the community watch.  Almost every street is blocked and barricaded with groups of men standing near.  It was sweet that the son of one of our neighbors was trying to reassure me that they have everything taken care of.  There is no reason for me to be afraid because,

“they will kill the bad guys.”

I asked, “who will?  You will?”

He said, “Yes yes.”

I said, “Have you killed anyone?!”

He laughs and says, “no no!  I mean us men.” 

I wasn’t even afraid but it was so sweet of him to try to comfort me.

Day 5 of Protests

29 January, 2011

This morning our phones are back on, for the moment.  I hope they stay on long enough for me to call my parents and let them know I’m ok.  No new news this morning so far. 

Parents called at 4:30am their time.  They were so worried.  I feel bad that they have to experience this from afar with little news.  I tried to comfort them as best I could, assured them that nothing is going on in this area.  I’ll tell them the truth later, when it’s over.

Went to get groceries and observe the general goings-on around town.  Discovered that most of the stores were closing early for the 4pm curfew.  We got a few more veggies and chocolate, making jokes about hunkering down during the night.  Then one of the roommates spoke to her sister and the word is that the police have been overtaken in Maadi and the protesters are going to wreak havoc all over the prosperous areas.  Like ours. 

So it’s coming to decision time: pack some things and go wait it out at someone else’s house, or stay here and risk the neighborhood.  Getting nervous about being able to leave the country if things get really bad.  Just nervous about the general demeanor of the city.  The mood seems to have shifted from righteous indignation against the government, to general angst and unrest.  A little more dangerous. 

I don’t want to leave the country.  I’ve had no thoughts of moving home or anything, despite the worry in my parents’ voices.  I know it will come to an end, however, it may take a while.  I live in Cairo.  I’ll stay as long as I can. 

 

Our neighbors are my heroes.  They’ve set up small blockades at the ends of the small neighborhood streets and are manning them with sticks and clubbing devices.  These are Egyptians prepared to protect their families and belongings.  They’re so brave.  We can still hear gunshots; some volleys have been quite close but they all seem to die away fairly quickly.  The big concern is the looters. 

School has officially been cancelled for this week.  There are discussions of evacuations to Europe tomorrow.  One small carry on is allowed.  What do you take when you have to leave most things?

Flares or something mortar-like are going off near the closest midan.  Rapid fire sounding.  We have tv again but we’re not getting too much information from Al Jazeera.  Going to try to stay up in order to stay informed.  If they storm the area, I vote for barricading the doors. 

Louder gunshots.  Could see the fire from the guns over the neighboring roof.  How close does that make them?  I would look it up but we still have no internet…It’s technically the next day, time to start a new post.

Days of Darkness

28 January, 2011

The internet and sms service has been cut off all over the country.  In an attempt to quell the coming rebellion, the government has supplied the people with more evidence of the totalitarian regime that has run it’s course and is floundering on life support.  Now people are cut off from communicating online and will be forced to meet in public to discuss strategies- it seems the government’s plan may backfire. 

The expats I’ve talked to have discussed the ramifications of life without internet (for the coming weekend anyway) and we are left without a way to contact our families or many of our friends.  We don’t know how to access news or information.  Without the internet, we are lost.  Our dependency on technology becomes glaringly apparent and overwhelmingly frightening.  How do we book plane tickets home if the protests reach an unfathomable crescendo?  How do we call each other if, as rumor has it, all cell service is suspended?  For many of us, it’s a return to the days of our childhood, where people called landlines from other landlines and didn’t have total access to friends and family.  What was that like?  I can barely remember…

Today is rumored to be the biggest day of protest yet.  People have already lost their lives in hopes of changing the 30 year regime of President Mubarak.  As an outsider, I wish them luck.  I also feel I have no place in the protests and am staying out of it as much as I can.  What will the weekend bring?  Will Egypt really conclude with a change in government like neighboring Tunisia?  What about Lebanon?  Yemen?  When we get the internet I’ll check. 

Most of us will wait out the weekend in a technology blackout.  I wish you luck, my Egyptian friends.

Now our cell phones are cut off. Hamdoulillah we have a land line but I don't have anyone to call from it anyway. We've made the best of it so far. Friends hanging out, making brownies, watching movies: it feels like a holiday. I know we'll get tired of it when we actually want to accomplish something but for now it's like a snow day with out the cold. Thank goodness it's a weekend and classes haven't started yet. I don't feel anxious about missing anything. I do wish we had a way to find out what was going on in Tahrir without going there.

 

Part II

23 hours without internet. At least 16 hours without cell phones.  We took a walk around to see Maadi and if the protests are expanding.  We found out a curfew was put in place from 6pm to 7am tomorrow.  We hurried home and plugged in the tv so we have some way of being informed.   Things appear to be escalating out in Al Qahira... We keep hearing noises that sound like gunfire- far away but distinct. Supposedly the police are firing live rounds at protesters now. There were tanks entering the city a few hours ago.  Definitely hearing gunfire near the house.  People are pretty jazzed up; we saw a police truck on fire on the way home in Maadi.  Rumors are that the government has captured El Baradei in hopes of taking the wind out of the protests.   No official word on the location of Mubarak. 

Tomorrow we’re going to attempt to find international pay phones.  If the news in the US is anything like the news here, our parents must be completely frantic- especially without any word from us.  Insha’allah we’ll be able to get through. 

A little worried about what the morning will reveal…

End of the Semester Senioritis

So...I only have one class left and 3 more assignments then I'm done with my first semester of grad school!  The last two months have flown by and I can't believe it's the middle of December already- well, mostly because it's still green here...
I can not concentrate on my last full paper...I'm much more fond of contemporary social theory than the old dead white guys and I find their original readings to be somewhat passé, although important, they've also been used so many times that it gets difficult to care....I also have sooo much to do in the next five days that I think my brain has shut down in self preservation :)  It's gonna be nice to have a 3 week vacation with optional reading and plenty of old friends and alcohol! and bacon....oh god, bacon....
So, I'm still not jaded (which is great bc it's only been 4 months) and I still like Cairo.  It's nice to start knowing areas and seeing familiar landmarks- makes it feel more like home.
I found an apartment (insha'allah) and will move in when I get back.  It's in an Egyptian area, as opposed to an expat area and it makes me nervous...but in a grow-some-ovaries kinda way.  I'm an adult, time to act like one and get out there, plus, as an anthropologist I need to experience "real" Cairo. I'm excited!
Maybe I'm in the writing mood, time to try one more look at Weber for something interesting to say in 10 pages.....

Giving Thanks in Cairo

The semester got pretty rough this last month and a half; thus the no writing in my blog.  School, work, friends, I had an issue with each and it drained me and I had a hard time finding the energy to put it all into words that wouldn't sound self-pitying.
Today is Thanksgiving.  Well, it's only 5 am at home so most people are already asleep. I've already eaten.  A few days ago I found out that everyone I hang out with here was going to be gone today and that i would be celebrating alone.  I was worried that I would be really homesick and cry in my stuffing.  However.....
Mom sent me 2 boxes of stove top stuffing and I was able to save one until today so just having my favorite Thanksgiving dish is equal to a mood elevator.  I also somehow ended  up with the fixings for mashed potatoes- my other favorite dish!  Turkey is good, but always served as more of a palate cleanser for the other two anyway.  So I made my stuffing, mashed my potatoes with garlic and yumminess and turned on the 1947 version of Miracle on 34th Street.  That's about all I needed.  Yes I miss my family but we're going to recreate Thanksgiving dinner on Christmas anyway and thanks to the internet I get to talk to them often.  So, here's what i'm thankful for this year (in random order):
1.  Cairo- I get to live in an amazing city (well, near it) and experience something interesting every time I go out.
2. Stuffing!- thank god mom sent me some!
3. Internet- without it I think I would be more homesick but emails and skype and IMing have kept me in touch with all the people I miss and I don't feel so alone.
4. Family and Friends- without the support of all the people I love I could never have found the confidence to move 7,000 miles away from home and after 3 months, finally feel comfortable here.  I know that I have a safety net if ever I should fall and that in itself is the most amazing thing to be grateful for.

In less than a month I'll be home.  I have mixed feelings.  On one hand it will be amazing to see everyone and be home to celebrate Christmas and have  some normalcy which I have extricated from my life.  However, I also feel like it might set me back.  After 3 months I feel like I belong here.  Things are settling down and I feel more comfortable in everyday happenings.  Spending 3 weeks away might make it harder to come back.  But these are the breaks :)

Classes.....oh classes.  I guess I was lulled into a false sense of security in the beginning of the semester.   That coupled with my horrendous procrastination skills and being sick these last 4 days have kinda made this last part of the semester super exciting!  Tons of essays, paper, drafts of my thesis proposal.  I'm not good at working on my own (something I need to get over, pronto) and I've been neglecting my thesis research because it feels like I'm doing something naughty.  Let me explain:  I enjoy reading about my thesis topic so much, and it's something I've been interested in for so long that when I do "research" it feels like recreational reading and it's fun; therefore, I should be doing reading for classes which is slightly laborious and lacking in fun.  Hilarious.  I know I picked the right topic then...

So far grad school is fun- in the way that we're given more agency (I'm trying to enjoy that part) and we finally get to study a topic of our choice.  I think next semester will be different, though.  The first semester at a new school in a new program is always a little rough.  You need to push boundaries, see when you can fudge a little and when you need to work your ass off.  When I get back from vacation I'll feel a little more prepared to work.  I think I experience culture shock in a nice capsule of denial.  I don't feel like I have culture shock, I enjoy new experiences, but I also don't seem to have the energy to do anything too strenuous which means I'm stressed on some level.  When I come back I'll be in my own apartment, insha'allah, and living off campus will help me feel more like an adult than I do in the dorms.  Having never lived in the dorms it's been an interesting experience....I feel like I'm 18 again.

Off to finish my holiday movie and spend one more day recovering.  The weekend is for work!